Sunday, December 28, 2008

Christmas with the Daring Bakers: French Yule Log

Given the timing, it wasn't a surprise that this month's Daring Bakers challenge was a Yule Log, or Buche de Noel. It also wasn't a surprise that this was the most time-intensive, complicated Yule Log I've ever made. Most yule logs that I've seen are comprised of a thin sponge cake rolled around a mousse or buttercream filling, and frosted with chocolate to resemble tree bark. This yule log, on the other hand, was composed of six different elements, from cake to mousse to creme brulee, layered in a buche mold or loaf pan, and frozen until solid.

The craziness first started with the question of the cake mold. You see, I wanted a rounded yule log. I knew that I could make my buche in a square-cornered loaf pan, but as we all know, there are no square-cornered logs found in nature. My baker's OCD demanded fully realistic edible flora! However, my obsessiveness is rivaled only by my cheapness, and I decided I didn't want to spend $40 on a buche cake pan, so I decided to construct one myself. Hello, second grade!

Round buche de noel: as delicious as it is realistic

Fun fact: paper mache is not as exciting as your memory might have you believe. Mostly, it is a slow and messy process. And as an additional tip, it is a good idea to follow an actual recipe, instead of just guessing quantities for the paper mache paste. I think my mold might have dried and hardened...eventually...but I didn't have three months to wait and find out.

However, a mold made from reinforced posterboard and duct tape worked swimmingly. I was worried about it softening after being filled and frozen, but it had no problems keeping its shape. It is now in my closet, because I spent too long making it to throw it away, even though I can't imagine needing it again. This is how pack rats think, people.

So after all the drama with the mold was over, all that was left was making the six buche components and assembling it over the course of several days! Simplicity itself. Here's what the buche was composed of:


I wanted a chocolate yule log, because chocolate makes everything better, but I wanted to fancy it up a little bit, so I added a few extra flavors. The chocolate mousse got a little orange zest to add a citrus flavor, the ganache got a bunch of cayenne and a little cinnamon to add some spice, and the creme brulee was infused with a cinnamon stick, although that flavor got lost in the heavier chocolate flavors. I made my own praline and thought the hazelnut praline crisp layers were the best part. So flaky, so crunchy, so delicious! Call me, hazelnut praline.

I had a grand vision of creating a frosty winter wonderland scene for my yule log, so I created a bunch of chocolate mushrooms, leaves, and butterflies, and set it all on a foil-covered cake board covered with multicolored chocolate designs. In the end it wasn't as glorious as my dream--perhaps I should have continued the second grade crafts theme and made a diorama--but I did have fun fiddling with all of my accessories. Here are some close-ups:

The butterflies: I drew a few different butterfly templates onto a sheet of paper and taped waxed paper over it. I traced the designs using different colored candy melts, and once they were hard, glued them together with more candy melts. It was definitely a learning process, and next time I know to make my butterflies a bit thicker so they don't keep breaking.
The mushrooms: For the caps, I inflated balloons just the tiniest bit, and dipped them halfway into candy melts. I set them to dry upside-down in an egg carton, and once completely dry, popped the balloon and carefully peeled it away. The stems were thin cigarette cookies dipped in candy melts and glued to the caps with candy melts.
The leaves: These were my favorite! Simply paint the tops of leaves with candy melts. You can use one color or blend several colors on one leaf. Once dry, carefully peel the leaf away, and you have a pretty chocolate leaf! I painted some of my butterflies and leaves with silver luster dust to get them to glitter.
The berries and rocks: these are new M&Ms Premiums. The red ones are raspberry almond and the blue ones are plain almond. They taste all right, but I mostly love them for their appearance.
The cake board: was made by covering a cardboard base with aluminum foil. I took several colors of candy melts--white and light blues--and plopped them at random intervals on the cake board. Then I smoothed them into a very thin layer with an offset spatula, and dragged a serrated cake comb through it to give an interesting design.

Overall, this recipe was time-consuming, between creating all the different elements and the various cooling/chilling times before assembly, but I didn't have too many difficulties or frustrations. I did have a bit of a hard time with the pate a bombe for the mousse, because the quantities were so small in my mixer. While I was making the icing I tasted it and thought it was seriously bitter, so I added a lot of extra sugar to compensate. I also doubled the icing recipe because so many people had difficulty getting it to fully cover their logs. Other than that, it was smooth sailing! I need to give a special shout-out to my main dishes man, who washed every dish in our kitchen--thrice, it seems--during the course of making this dessert.

And how did it taste? Darn good! All of the elements worked extremely well together, and although it seems excessive, the taste is actually quite light and not too rich. It also keeps incredibly well--I made it 2 weeks ago and froze it, and we're now enjoying it--straight from the refrigerator, not the freezer--over this Christmas weekend. Everyone who's tried it has liked it immensely, so I will consider this a success.

Because it was so much work, it probably won't be a regular dessert, but I will definitely keep the recipe one hand next time I need a show-stopper. The exceedingly long recipe is below, under the cut.

What did everyone else think?

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Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Christmas Baking, Part 2

I like the Christmas candy recipes that I posted yesterday, but I LOVE these cookie recipes. I guess I'm more of a cookie girl at heart.

Gingerbread Cookies
This recipe is AMAZING. I've tried many different gingerbread recipes, and I invariably find ones that taste great but don't hold their shape well, or hold their shape beautifully but taste like cardboard. I thought this one was easy to work with and had a great dark gingerbread taste. Next time I'll add orange zest, and it'll be just perfect. This is now my default gingerbread cookie recipe.

Chocolate Crinkles
I actually made these twice, because the first batch was nasty. I used a recipe I heard about on NPR (tip: don't take baking advice from a radio news program) and the result was flat, ugly, grainy, overly sweet cookies. Tragic! Fortunately the friendly internet provided me with another recipe that turned out much better. Crunchy on the outside, chewy and fudgy inside, with a robust chocolate flavor. The only downside is that they don't keep well. I tasted one today (two days after baking) and it definitely tasted stale. I guess this means I'll have to eat them faster in the future!

Chocolate Candy Cane Cookies
Without a doubt, my favorite Christmas cookie. I saw this recipe in Bon Appetit a few years ago and made them one Christmas with my mom. We've both been making them religiously ever since. Ultra-chocolately cookies sandwich a minty buttercream frosting, and the edges are rolled in crushed candy canes. Even my boss, who (allegedly) hates mint, loved the combination of chocolate and peppermint in these cookies. These are also fab using other flavors of buttercream in between the chocolate cookies. I've done them with lemon, coconut, berry, and plain vanilla, and they are always delicious.

As always, the recipes are below. Merry Christmas to all, and to all happy eating!

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Monday, December 22, 2008

Christmas Baking, Part 1

No TWD for me this week...the house is already stuffed to the rafters with sugary sweets, and the thought of adding butterscotch pudding to the mix didn't excite me at all. However, I did happen to make some things I think are even better than pudding: Christmas cookies and candy! I got medieval with the mixer this past weekend and churned out six cookies/candy for gift giving this year. Here's the first wave of goodies:

Coconut-Lime Macaroons
I love the combination of coconut and lime. I have a coconut-lime truffles recipe that regularly haunts my taste buds, but I wanted something that would hold up a little better than delicate truffles on a cookie platter. These miniature macaroons were dipped in green-tinted white chocolate and given a chocolate drizzle to dress them up a bit.

Walnut Fudge
This is actually my father-in-law's recipe. He's famous for making huge blocks of fudge and giving it away each Christmas. He also does a white chocolate version, but my heart belongs to this semi-sweet variety. It's really easy--no candy thermometer or beating required--but I like it much better than other "easy" fudge recipes that call for condensed milk or marshmallow cream. It's perfectly smooth and rich and, to me, what an ideal fudge should be.

Almond-Cinnamon Toffee
Jason loves toffee, but I rarely make it for him. Poor little lamb! So he was really psyched to see that I made it for the gift plates this year, since it means lots of scraps for him. You can bet he was praying for lots of mistakes and awkwardly broken pieces while I was divvying it up. This toffee has just a touch of cinnamon in it to give it a subtle holiday taste. I mostly like it because it doesn't get unpleasantly chewy or sticky.

The recipes are under the cut below. Stay tuned tomorrow for the rest of the Christmas baking! And, because I love reading about sweets almost as much as I love eating them, tell me what you're making for Christmas this year!

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Tuesday, December 16, 2008

TWD: Buttery "Jam" Cookies

If you were to make a recipe titled Buttery Jam Cookies, what flavors would you expect to find? Butter, naturally. And also jam, correct? So why, then, did my Buttery "Jam" Cookies taste like...nothing?
They're kind of cute, right? I used chunky cherry preserves from TJ's, and last time I checked, they tasted awesome and flavorful on toast. Mmmm, toast. I added some pink food coloring so they wouldn't have that sickly reddish-purple-bruise color that jam always gives baked goods. Pink cherry cookies? Sound great! I was pretty psyched to taste these after they came out of the oven.

I took a bite... cue *crickets chirping*
Another bite...how to explain my reaction?

Have you seen the episode of The Simpsons that parodies A Prairie Home Companion? Homer and the family are watching a Garrison Keillor monologue on TV. As the studio audience cracks up repeatedly at Keillor's small-town dry wit, Homer watches stone-faced, not understanding the jokes. Finally, he gets up and hits the side of the TV. THUMP! "Stupid TV! Be more funny!" THUMP!

Friends, I felt like Homer Simpson. "Stupid cookies! Be more tasty!" THUMP!
We decided that maybe the cookies needed frosting, so I whipped up a quick batch of frosting, using more cherry preserves in the frosting to give it some extra cherry flavor. And still...nada. Don't get me wrong, they're not terrible. I actually liked the flaky, almost biscuit-like texture, and yes, there was some strong butter flavor. But...they needed something more, for me.
The worst part is reading the reactions of people who loved them, because a lot of folks seem to go crazy over them. I feel like these cookies are holding out on me. Is it malice? The cookie equivalent of Jekyll and Hyde? Or is this recipe only meant to be used with apricot jam, no matter what the recipe options tell us? If I make them again I'll double the ginger and use apricot jam, to give them the full benefit of the doubt. But to be honest, I don't know if I will make them again, after facing the heartbreak of tasteless cookies this week.
THUMP!

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Fuzzy Wuzzy Was A Bear

...or rather, Fuzzy Wuzzy was a truffle. That's right, to all the smarties who guessed that this gorgeous furry beast was moldy chocolate, you are right! You win...bragging rights. (Yay?)

But this is not just any moldy chocolate, this is an overpriced truffle from Vosges. A month ago, Jason & I visited the Vosges boutique in Las Vegas and bought some treats, including a small hand-picked truffle assortment. We got home, decided to set aside the truffles until we could really "savor" them. Weeks pass, the truffles get lost in the shuffle, only to be found a good month after they were purchased. And mind you, these truffles had been sitting at room temperature this whole time. But does that set off any warning bells? Oh my, no.

So Jason, brave Jason, starts right in, chomping down on a delicious hazelnut praline truffle. I ask him how it is, he says, "...good..." and offers me a taste. As I go to pick it up, I notice a green streak on the inside. Breaking it apart, I see the resplendent mold garden that has been blossoming between the ganache and the chocolate shell. Aaaah! I couldn't believe he ate half the truffle and didn't notice it was a penicillin factory! I asked if he didn't notice the taste, and he said he thought it was just an unusual ingredient, because Vosges does a lot of crazy flavor combinations. (Mold + chocolate is the next big seller, you heard it here first.) But after finding out what he'd eaten, this was his reaction:


So kids, let this be a warning to you. Don't wait to eat your truffles! Don't let excuses like "diets" or "spoiling your dinner" get in the way of your chocolate consumption. Bad things happen when you put off truffle eating. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

[And P.S., we totally tore the rest of the truffles apart and devoured the ones with no visible signs of mold. We have no shame and big appetites.]

Monday, December 08, 2008

Tuesdays with Dorie: Christmas Sugar Cookies

After the fun of baking with my mom last week, it was a bit of a letdown to go back to solo baking. However, the fabulous sugar cookie recipe this week and the resulting cookies I scarfed went a long way toward consoling me.

So, folks. Sugar cookies. Not too exciting, right? A basic component of the holiday cookie platter, but rarely the star. Too often, sugar cookies are dry and floury, with hard royal icing on top. Not tasty! These cookies, however, were awesome. They were everything all sugar cookies aspire to be. Soft, but crisp on the edges. Buttery and flavorful. (I added the zest of half and orange and just a sprinkling of cinnamon to get them in the holiday spirit.) So good, I had to stop myself from eating all the unbaked dough.

The little guy on the lower right is my favorite


As many people noted, the dough did get soft very quickly. To counter this problem, I used a trick I learned several years ago: immediately after making the dough, I rolled it out to proper baking thickness between two sheets of parchment paper and stuck it in the fridge on a baking sheet. This helps it chill much faster, so I didn't have to wait the full two hours before beginning to cut the cookies. This also means I didn't have to flour the dough as I rolled it out, so they didn't get too floury or tough.

I did roll my dough a little thicker than the recommended 1/4", so I ended up with some fatty bo-batties. Which was no problem, since I love a good chunky cookie any day.


I finished the cookies off with a simple powdered-sugar based icing. They were the hit of Jason's holiday party! I was a bit bummed to not get a few more cookies out of the batch, but it was also a blessing since the decorating took way too long as it was, and I need all the beauty sleep I can get.

And finally, to make up for the lack of my adorable mom in this post, I give you this instead. Any guesses as to what it might be? Answer tomorrow!

Tuesday, December 02, 2008

Tuesdays with Mommie: Linzer Sables

This week's TWD recipe is very special. For the first. time. ever. in Cake or Death history, I had my mom baking with me! Or more accurately, I baked with her, since we were in her kitchen using her ingredients. (Thanks, Mom! Sorry for spilling that ganache on the floor. And for dirtying so many dishes and countertops. And for dropping that rubber band in the oven and melting it to the oven floor. Love you!)

Familial Camaraderie: it's what's for dessert

We had a great time making the Linzer Sables together. We made the dough a day in advance, and aside from some massive frustration involving her poorly designed, eternally frustrating food processor, it all went smoothly. (I have added her food processor to my list of Inanimate Arch Nemeses. It's a big list.) We used toasted almonds for the nut meal, and the dough had a nice nutty flavor. I loved the addition of the spices, although it kept tricking my nose into thinking we were making gingerbread. My taste buds, however, could not be fooled.

The next day, we started cutting our shapes. I have a big collection of miniature "fondant" cutters from Wilton, that I rarely use for fondant but often use for cookies and chocolate decorations. The cookies ranged in size from under 2" to slightly over, and we also made some minis, so we ended up with a healthy number of cookies in the end. I think my dough was rolled a little thick--I thought the resulting cookies could have been thinner, and baked a little less, so the filling-to-cookie ratio was a little higher.
We used several different fillings: strawberry jam, raspberry jam, chocolate-caramel ganache, and Nutella. I was expecting the chocolate-based cookies to be the most popular, but the jam versions were actually the winners around my house! Who'da thunk it? There was something about the pairing of fruity filling and nutty cookie that worked beautifully.
So yes, the cookies were tasty, and I would definitely make them again. They looked beautiful, especially those filled with the jewel-toned strawberry jam. With seasonal cookie shapes, they'd be perfect for a Christmas or Valentine's Day gift plate.

You may be saying to yourself, those cookies sound awesome. What is their secret? Is it special equipment? Premium ingredients? Innate pastry skills that are impossible to duplicate? Well, it might be those things, but truly, the secret to our baking success is love.

...No, just kidding. The secret is saliva! Eat up, fools!